The view begins in reverse through the windows of a cable car that climbs you slowly up through the South Tryolean Alps to the top of the car-free mountain. From up here it's a pine-filled vista where the Vigiljoch spring water that streams through these mountains is the lifeblood of the resort - pumped through the taps, filling the infinity pool and served as table water or Forst beer. Designed with streamlined Nordic sensibilities the rooms are modernist spare and chic. "Eco not ego" is the mantra reportedly claimed by its architect Matteo Thun and his commitment to this has been rewarded many times including five green stars from Eco Hotels of the World. Despite the front of the hotel being edged with horizontal struts of pine, there is little that comes between you and nature. A range of spa treatments - from body exfoliation to massage - help to feel it deeper.